This article pulls from two guiding outfits we work with closely, Kevin Hjertaas at MTN Guiding out of the Rockies, and Evan Stevens at Zenith Mountain Guides in Squamish. The gear lists overlap more than they differ. The philosophy is the same: light enough to actually carry, capable enough to matter.

First, the part that isn't gear

Route selection is the most underrated safety tool there is. Study the glacier before you go: summer photos, winter trip reports, topos. Know where the crevasse zones are. Travel when the snowpack is thick, settled, and not actively melting. Go when visibility is good. If you are travelling on steep terrain, know what to expect ahead of time.

The other thing worth saying plainly: rescue skills disappear fast if you don't practice. Most groups, under real stress, in gloves, with snow falling, would struggle to run a Z-pulley efficiently. Kevin recommends travelling as two rope teams if there are enough skiers in your group. This way the second team is free to move independently and either pull or rig a drop loop if someone goes in. Self-rescue is also well worth learning. Same gear, different skill set.

Both Kevin and Evan run glacier travel and crevasse rescue instruction. If glaciated terrain is on your menu this season, a course before you go is the most valuable thing on this list.

The rope kit

Harness

You're not planning to hang in it for long, but fit matters more than people give it credit for. Hot spots on a multi-day traverse are genuinely miserable. The main criteria: goes on with skis attached, adjusts with gloves on, sits comfortably under a pack. All ski mountaineering harnesses pass the same certifications, so beyond that it really comes down to which features you prefer and what fits your body.

The Petzl Fly (100–130g) is a solid option: buckle-free toggle at the waist, girth hitch at the leg loops, removable foam. The Petzl Altitude (160g) adds traditional buckles if you prefer that adjustment style and slightly more structure. The Petzl Tour sits in the middle, with adjustable leg loops that open fully so you can put it on or take it off without removing skis or crampons. On the Blue Ice side, the Choucas and Choucas Light are well-regarded for comfort and construction, with the Light trimming weight for more technical objectives. Try a few on before committing; harness fit is personal enough that specs on paper only go so far.

Rope

Zenith's preference: multiple shorter ropes spread through the group rather than one long one. If the person carrying the single rope goes in the hole, so does most of your rescue capacity.

The Petzl RAD Line has become the standard for good reason. It's a 6mm hyperstatic cord (less than 2% elongation) which is actually an advantage for crevasse rescue: low stretch reduces the yo-yo effect when arresting a fall and makes hauling more efficient. It weighs 22g per metre, absorbs essentially no water, and the HMPE-reinforced sheath is specifically engineered to work with the Tibloc and both Traxion pulleys. It is not a dynamic rope and cannot be used for lead climbing. For a deeper look at rope selection, Eric Carter's guide on the SkiUphill blog and Zenith's rope video are both worth your time.

Ice axe

The choice comes down to objective. The Petzl Gully has a hammer which can be useful if you're placing pitons on technical terrain. The Petzl Ride has an adze for general mountaineering. Know your route before you decide.

Crampons

For glacier snow only, the Petzl Leopard is all-aluminium and light. If there's any climbing involved or the chance of rock contact, the Petzl Irvis Hybrid gives you steel points for better grip and more secure footing.

Slings

One 120cm double sling and one 180cm triple is the standard recommendation. Dyneema is the common choice for ski mountaineering; lower stretch and more hydrophobic than pure nylon, so it doesn't absorb water and stiffen up in cold conditions. The Petzl Pur'Anneau is a solid option, as is anything from Black Diamond or Blue Ice in the same spec. Length and material matter more than brand here.

Carabiners

At minimum one auto-locker you can clip into the rope quickly. The Petzl Sm'D Triple Action is the right choice, and it's also the recommended companion biner for both the Tibloc and the Nano Traxion, with a small hole for keeper cords on hardware you really don't want to drop. Add a handful of non-lockers for system building.

The crevasse kit

Progress capture: Nano Traxion or Micro Traxion

The difference between these two matters. The Nano Traxion is lighter (53g vs 85g), works down to 7mm, and is Zenith's pick for most glacier setups, particularly with the RAD Line. The catch: its cam doesn't lock open, so it can only function as a progress capture, not a free-running pulley. The Micro Traxion has a cam lockout, making it a true 3-in-1: progress capture, pulley, and emergency ascender. If you might need to dock a heavy haul or use a more complex rescue configuration, the Micro's lockout is worth the extra 30g. Both run at 91% efficiency with sealed ball bearings and grip on icy or muddy rope.

Rope grab: Petzl Tibloc

The Petzl Tibloc is 35g, rated 8–11mm, and approved by Petzl for use on the 6mm RAD Line. The current v2 has a spring-loaded hood that presses the cam into the rope for a better hold of the rope. Limitation: don't shock-load it, and don't use it for self-belaying. Carabiner shape matters: round cross-section or Petzl I-Beam stocks work best.

Cordelette

Two lengths: 5–7mm at 5m for anchor building and self-rescue, and 5–6mm at 2m. Petzl accessory cord by the metre works fine. Thinner cord is weaker, so check the manufacturer specs before doubling it in an anchor.

Pulley

Friction stacks up fast between snow, rope, and direction changes. The Petzl Partner Pulley cuts friction meaningfully over a carabiner redirect. In a Z-drag, it earns the most at the redirect point on the anchor.

Ice screw

Most skiers carry a single 17–21cm screw as a backup rather than a primary anchor system. The main variables are weight, placement speed, and price.

On the Petzl side, the Laser Speed is the workhorse: bomber threads, fast hanger, well-proven. The Laser Speed Light shaves weight with an aluminium hanger and lighter construction, worth it if grams matter on your objective. Blue Ice makes two options worth knowing: the Aero and the Aero Light, both loved for smooth placement and competitive on weight, with the Light being one of the lightest screws on the market. For a skier carrying one screw as insurance, any of these will do the job. The differences come down to budget, weight priority, and personal preference on the hanger feel. Zenith recommends carrying your screw on a dedicated biner so it doesn't bounce off your harness on the descent.

Helmet?

It's become normal to wear a helmet for glacier travel even if you don't wear one otherwise — crevasse falls frequently produce head injuries. A helmet on the pack costs nothing on the approach.

For rappels and technical terrain

For short or low-angle rappels, a Munter Hitch on your locking biner will do just fine. For longer descents on the RAD Line, you need a device rated for 6mm or a Petzl Reverso. Expect less friction than you're used to; test your setup before you're committed.

For serious technical terrain with placed anchors, add knifeblade pitons, a baby angle, small nuts, extra cord, and carry the Gully with its hammer. But that's a different trip than a spring icefield tour.

Group size and redundancy

Two-person team: you each need nearly everything on this list. Three or four people: you can spread weight, but don't concentrate the rescue gear on one person. If that person goes in, so does your ability to get them out.

Shop the full mountaineering and safety collection at SkiUphill, or come in and talk through your specific objective with us in Canmore or Squamish.

With guidance from Kevin Hjertaas at MTN Guiding and Evan Stevens at Zenith Mountain Guides.